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Thread: Bandit to Rustler conversion

  1. #1
    Senior Member rcman's Avatar
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    Bandit to Rustler conversion

    So i originally bought the traxxas bandit xl5 in July of 2011. About 4 months later i got the velineon brushless system. I soon realized that the bandit just wasnt for mee dispite the brushless system. It didnt have enough ground clearance for where i was driving it in, and it just didnt look big enough for my likings. So in about June of 2012, i decided to convert my bandit to a rustler. Then i wanted to sell it for like $380 on ebay, cause i had about 400 dollars in upgrades into it, and then use that money to buy a rustler vxl. So yesterday for Christmas i got a couple hobbytown USA giftcards, and some cash from santa and family members. Today I went to hobbytown cause there were about 5 things i wanted to buy to convert my car, RPM front and rear aarms, RPM front body mount, a heat sink for my animus, and a 2s venom LiPo battery also for my animus. I planned to only spend about $50, i actually spent $129.75. Here is what I bought.....

    [IMG][/IMG]
    RPM castor blocks, just lets me feel good that they're there
    [IMG][/IMG]
    HiTec servo for my animus, this one was $18 so i said why not
    [IMG][/IMG]
    There is the Venom LiPo i said earlier. I went with a 2s cause it was cheaper than a 3s, fits like a glove.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Here are the stub axles themselves, the guy at hobbytown said i needed them, so i got em.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    RPM front body mount, id rather have RPM than stock any day of the week.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    IDK why the guy said i needed these, both the front and rear hexes, stub axles came with these, so now i have 16 when i only need 4.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Here are the front hexes, they came with some pins to.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Now for the front hexes, and look at that, more pins!
    [IMG][/IMG]
    The driveshaft tubes, longer than the bandit ones by about 1 centimeter.
    But i wanted them to match so i get them both in black. And the front aarms are close to 1cm longer but the rears are about 1in longer, which i liked cause i get more ground clearance.
    ( I have 5 more pictures to show on the other thread, i cant show all 14 cause the max number is 10
    I know i dont have everything but this is all i could buy cause of money. I still need the body, wheels and tires... I want to get some stock front tires on proline desperado rims, and some proline badlands and proline street fighters, and a pair of proline sandpaws, all 2.8 inches of course.
    Sorry about it being so long, I just want to show with pictures to, not just words.
    BTW: This was the most money i have ever spent at hobbytown besides buying the bandit itself.
    If nobody comes back from the future to stop you, how bad of a decision can it be?
    -Traxxas Rustler VXL
    -Axial SCX10 Jeep Wrangler

  2. #2
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    Nice! I'm going to paint my new Jconcepts Ford Raptor SVT body for my Rustler tomorrow. I think I might take pictures between each coat.

  3. #3
    Senior Member rcman's Avatar
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    Thanks! I was thinking of getting either the proline desert rat body or the proline bulldog body. I want something that fits the rustler, looks more like a car than a truck, and that is aaround $35.
    If nobody comes back from the future to stop you, how bad of a decision can it be?
    -Traxxas Rustler VXL
    -Axial SCX10 Jeep Wrangler

  4. #4
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    I would get the Desert Rat or check out the Jconcepts Hi-Speed Illuzion. I'm not favoring Jconcepts over Proline it's just a body that I think you should check out. The bosy thread will be up later tonight!

  5. #5
    Senior Member rcman's Avatar
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    Ok, i was actually also thinking about getting the jconcepts body.
    If nobody comes back from the future to stop you, how bad of a decision can it be?
    -Traxxas Rustler VXL
    -Axial SCX10 Jeep Wrangler

  6. #6
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    That will be cool. When you get whatever body you choose, do a Thread on it.

  7. #7
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    The dude at you HT didn't know what he was doing, other than making some money. The rear stub axles (2753X) are the same on the Rustler and the Bandit, it's the inner shaft that are different. If you want your rear shafts to last, look at the HD rear ones from the Slash 4x4 (6852X), they have beefier tabs around the u-joints. You need different front axles (2754), the Bandit ones will work but they are a bit short and make it hard to get a good bite with the locking nut. The 2754 was bad on his part, the new hexes came with them so that was just an extra $1. That's all I noticed just looking real quick, if you get a chance, compare the parts breakdown and make sure you've got everything. I also suggest converting to the hex hardware, Tony's Screws are probably some of the best ones out there.

  8. #8
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    Also, the stock turnbuckles are actually stronger than the Red or Blue ones. If you want the strongest though, get the Lunsford ones.

  9. #9
    Senior Member rcman's Avatar
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    SchrodeMode, ya, that guy is the new guy there. I soon realized that the sub axles are the same as the ones on the bandit. the inner shafts are a whole lot longer than the bandits which i thought was cool. ya, i forgot to ask for the front axles, but those arent that expensive. I am thinking as an upgrade, ill get the MIP dogbones for the rustler. Or i could get the integy blue aluminum CVDs, should i get the integys, or the MIPs, they are about the same price. Im gonna get the RCScrewz, stainless screw kit, which is all hex also. I would get the lunsford links, but they are really expensive, plus i like the blue that the traxxas ones give me. I think ill get the bulldog body, but i dont know what design to paint. I want to use blue, and black and mkaybe some white in there. it would be my first body i would paint, but i want it to look good.
    If nobody comes back from the future to stop you, how bad of a decision can it be?
    -Traxxas Rustler VXL
    -Axial SCX10 Jeep Wrangler

  10. #10
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    Look into the HD ones from the Slash man, they're only $20 and WAY better than the stock ones. If you have to get the metal ones though, stay clear of Integy, MIP would be the way I'd go. We try not to sell Integy where I work, if someone is dead set though, we'll order it for them but they pay up front. You could also look into the XO-1 shafts, I know guys are using them on the 4x4 Slash, so in theory they should work on the Rustler. I may have to grab a set from feebay and try them out. I've heard mixed reviews about the RCScrewz, some people say they strip and rust too easy, I've also heard about them snapping. I've never read a bad review about Tony's Screws, not trying to force anything, just passing on what I've learned.
    Last edited by SchrodeMode; 12-28-2012 at 09:24 PM.

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