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Thread: RC Ramps

  1. #31
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    as to keeping it light, rather than plywood sides, i was thinking of a 1x1 frame. the only trick is going to be figuring out how to get a curve in the face without using ply for the sides.

  2. #32
    MyLosiEatsYourTruck
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    as long as ur not Mamba Monstering a 8T 2.0 with the 2200kv n 2 it it should work great!! SCTs r pretty good to ramps and Stadium Trucks

  3. #33
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    its 1/10 short course, slashes, SC10's, blitzes, stuff like that

  4. #34
    cscow7
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    wafer board works great, its cheap, durable, and waterproof if you put a coat of paint on it

  5. #35
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    wafer board? thats a new one on me??

  6. #36
    Senior Member rcbeginner's Avatar
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    hey if you have a old broken computer use the sides to make ramps easy and good just put a brick to keep them up try it metal works best

  7. #37
    Moderator SportFury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by godofcable View Post
    as to keeping it light, rather than plywood sides, i was thinking of a 1x1 frame. the only trick is going to be figuring out how to get a curve in the face without using ply for the sides.
    you could always go to an exhaust shop and see if they have any scrap or even new pieces of exhaust tubbing and explaine to them what you are using it for and they might even put the bends in the pipe for you and 4 or 5 pieces should be strong enough for your ramp. You can use tech screws (zip screws) to install the 1/4 board to the pipe :-}

    Jay

    edit: you might want to think about making it into 2 sections and clamping them together when in use and maybe using 3 pieces of pipe per section. and make it as strong as you can because i wouldn't want a model being damaged because the frame was weak. Someone recomended wheels already and i will second it for a ramp of this size and maybe even removable arms so you can move it/them around easier.
    Last edited by SportFury; 12-21-2010 at 04:56 AM.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by SportFury View Post
    you could always go to an exhaust shop and see if they have any scrap or even new pieces of exhaust tubbing and explaine to them what you are using it for and they might even put the bends in the pipe for you and 4 or 5 pieces should be strong enough for your ramp. You can use tech screws (zip screws) to install the 1/4 board to the pipe :-}

    Jay

    edit: you might want to think about making it into 2 sections and clamping them together when in use and maybe using 3 pieces of pipe per section. and make it as strong as you can because i wouldn't want a model being damaged because the frame was weak. Someone recomended wheels already and i will second it for a ramp of this size and maybe even removable arms so you can move it/them around easier.
    I built the ramp using 2x4's for the frame, and made a 4 foot wide section. Brought it to the track to see how it performed, with the mindset that I would build another one just like it if it worked. It wasn't too heavy. One guy on either sider could easily move it.

    The trouble is how high we flew. The ramp is about 24" tall, with a slight curve to the face. Its 4x4 in dimensions, and I used 1/4" ply for the face. We were seeing about 5-6 feet vertical flight, with about 12-15 feet of distance travelled in the air. It was an absolute blast. You had a smile plastered on your face. But the problem was you didn't always hit the landing ramp. If you missed it, there was carnage. Its just too big for indoor use. So we're going to shorten it a bit.

  9. #39
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    That's what I was thinking about doing, it's just getting the wood.
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  10. #40
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    It wasn't bad. I think I have about $75 in materials, and I have enough wood to build another ramp.

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