Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: Rustler vxl and stampede 4x4 vxl

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    21

    Rustler vxl and stampede 4x4 vxl

    hello everyone ive been floating around the forum here for a couple of months now, and just about everything I ever needed to know was found and I thank everyone for all the useful information. But... haha you knew that was coming right lol. Here is my situation say around mid December I bought my first rusty vxl and it was great, and since ive bought myself a pede 4x4 vxl. Now what I'm trying to figure out is why does the pede seem to be much faster and more powerful than the rusty ? They are both totally stock except for a few rpm and alloy upgrades.(shock caps and such) Both same batteries out of the box and what not. Only major difference would be the rusty now has 2.8 desperado's with street fighter tires all around. Any Ideals ????

  2. #2
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    19
    Well they have the same motors and ESC, therefore it would make sense that they would be roughly the same performance wise. I know the Stampede stock gearing is 11/54 while the Rustler is 25/83, so they have a completely different gearbox...I don't really know how this translates in comparison to one another, but apparently the Pede is geared out of the box for more speed than the Rusty. As for power, the 4x4 will get much more traction and is obviously designed to be a more powerful offroad basher than the Rustler. I think if you were to plop some 11.1 lipos in them both the Rustler would be substantially faster,especially if you geared it for speed runs, but the Pede 4x4 is a little beast!

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    21
    Thank you Kevin for your response. I would have to agree with you, I'm thinking the rusty is more of a top end speed, and the pede more of a get up and go. As far as the 3s lipo, I'm gonna have to pass. I am just now getting back into rc and the 2s lipo is more than enough for me hahaha. Thnx again.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    118
    That is the issue. The gearing your rusty has a bigger pinion and smaller spur. That translates to less torque and more speed. You can change the gear setup if you like to he closer to the same.

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Rockingham. Western Australia
    Posts
    36
    well if the stmpede is geared at 11/54 that equates to a ratio of 4.909:1 where as the rustler geared at 25/83 which is a ratio of 3.32:1 but the ruster tyres are about 4.1" diameter and the stampede about 4.97" add to that the balooning effect on the overall circumference on the tyres and you will see that the 4.97" diameter could grow to 7"+ and the final gearing suddenly changes for extra speed as the tyre baloons

  6. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    21
    very nicely put ty. New question for you guys seems how it still pertains to both vehicles. I've read many times that running 2s lipos with stock motors and gearing should not harm anything, though ive noticed that the motors in both seem to get very very hot. Am I still safe ?

    battery = 2s 25c 5000mah

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Rockingham. Western Australia
    Posts
    36
    I know what you mean, my vxl 3500kv gets pretty hot too, it always has I figure if it breaks I will fit a mmp with a 4 pole motor. But if your worried it could pay to gear it a tad lower for safety sake. I have run mine for about 4 months on lipos, some 2s but mainly 3s and the motor is still going strong

  8. #8
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    21
    well im thinking the same here, if it burns up I will replace it with better. It seems that there is a shut down of some sort if the motor does get to hot. I think I read that somewhere.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    118
    Gearing down sounds like a good plan to me too.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Vancouver island BC Canada
    Posts
    144
    Always try to keep your motor in heat spec's, as far as I know the esc will NOT shutdown until the ESC is overheated not the motor. If your running to hot gear down(pinion up teeth/spur down teeth), cold temps gear up(pinion down teeth/spur up teeth). Sometimes even one tooth loss on your pinion can make or break your motor/esc, thats why some people will much rather change their spur gear over their pinion.

    for example:
    I run the MMP 4600kv 4 pole in my 2wd sc10, with the gearing of 16pin and 87spur I'm good on our 6min mains but when I tried to get more punch I went to a 15pin, I overheated around 5min into the next event. On longer tracks it goes up to the 18pin and it's good for a full batt(gens ace 2s 40c 5300)

    When I played with my gearing I went cold then worked my way from there, the gearing they give people stock is a all around set-up, it's not meant for one thing over the other. There are so many variables when it comes to why your over/under geared, so everything has to just be given a starting point to get you going.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •