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Thread: Slash 4x4 set ups - DIALED

  1. #1
    Senior Member NitroXray80809's Avatar
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    Slash 4x4 set ups - DIALED

    The stock AND the Platinum Slash 4x4 trucks are both setup out of the
    box geared toward super high bite surfaces like parking lots, asphalt
    and stuff like that. That is why there is a level of push in the
    chassis and the stiff front end. Since most of the people buying them
    will be driving them on all sorts of random terrain and a lot of
    streets and parking lots, this makes sense.

    However, for the track racers out there, know that with a few changes
    you can have it dialed on the track. The entire chassis package is an
    awesome machine and is very capable of being fast. There's a ton of
    steering and corner speed in this truck with the right adjustments.
    Here's a few initial changes I'd recommend before throwing it down on
    the track for the first time. I'll post the rest of the setup
    afterward.


    Front end:
    - outer steering link: front hole (plastic knuckles)
    - shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler fronts work well
    - camber link: outer/ lower & inner/ upper
    - diff: 10K to 15K

    Rear end:
    - sway bar: black
    - diff: 5K to 7K

    - install center diff (50K to 100K)

    ----------------


    Just doing these things alone will make the truck rotate nicely and
    provide controllable on-power steering exiting corners.

    I'll post my complete setup below.

    Be warned it may be long, but worth the read. I'll explain why on some
    of it. This truck is SICK when setup


    SLASH 4x4 setup: FRONT END

    - Toe: 1.5 (out), set at ride height with a slight amount of bump
    steer (bumpout). It seems to like a little bit of bumpsteer.
    - Static Camber: -2.0, set at ride height and measure each wheel
    independently with the wheel pointing straight forward.
    - Camber Link: inner: #1 & outer: lower, This corrects the camber rise
    to maintain a levelk of negatice camber when fully extended. It makes
    the font end (steering & control) more consistent & predictable
    throughout the suspension range. Use the #2 position for even MORE
    steering.
    - Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #2
    - Shock Length: 95mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end out
    to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
    steering and helps settle the front end during landings.
    - Shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler RED fronts. Should be the
    same as the newer white fronts on Rustler. These springs are softer
    than the stockers and feel pretty good. The Rustler springs are a
    linear rate and feel a bit smoother.
    - Shock oil/ pistons: 60wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
    - Ride Height: Approx 27mm (shafts slightly below level), This will
    also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
    and measured from surface to the skid just below the front of the
    inner hinge pin.
    - Sway Bar: Black (9mm in front of hollow ball)
    - Diff: 10K, mixing to get a 15K feel is also useable larger tracks
    with bite.
    - Bumpsteer: Flat: up

    Front end note: If using plastic steering knuckles, use the front hole
    for more steering. This will be the same as the Platinum with the
    aluminum accessory knuckles.

    The plastic knuckles are acually nice to have the second (rear)
    adjustment. This hole is good on large high bite tracks to keep turn
    in smooth and less aggressive.

    SLASH 4x4 setup: REAR END

    - Toe: 4.0 (blue carriers as marked), The 2.5's are good on small
    tight tracks and/ or high bite smooth tracks.
    - Static Camber: -3.0, set at ride height.
    - Camber Link: inner: #3 & outer: fixed on blue carriers and #3 on Pro-
    Line rear carriers. Use the #5 hole on the inner on small high bite
    tracks. It improves chassis rotation.
    - Hinge Pin Location: Lower, Try the upper location on really rough
    tracks. Reset ride height when changing this adjustment.
    - Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #3
    - Shock Length: 110mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end
    out to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
    steering and helps the chassis settle during landings. Very handy on
    those tracks that don't provide adequate landing jumps.
    - Shocks Springs: T-Maxx White Progressives. These springs offer a
    firmer feel and are longer and require less preload, which allows them
    to work within a happy range.
    - Shock oil/ pistons: 55wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
    - Ride Height: Approx 30mm (shafts slightly above level), This will
    also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
    and measured from surface to the bott the skid just below the rear of
    the inner hinge pin. Lower this setting to level with the front on
    high speed smooth tracks.
    - Sway Bar: Black (flush with hollow ball), switch to silver bar on
    dusty loose tracks.
    - Diff: 7K, Try 5K on really tight tracks

    SLASH 4x4 setup: The REST

    Wheels: Pro-Line SC One Piece (Slash 2wd rear offset) all the way
    around
    Inserts: Pro-Line SC Blue
    Tires: Pro-Line SC Calibers, Bowties & Switches, Calibers have been
    good on most everything and consistent between bite and loose. Bowties
    favor loose and offer better forward bite vs. site bite. Good for
    chassis rotation and acceleration. The Switches are good on really
    hite tracks and abrasive surfaces. M3 is good in colder weather and
    also in dusty situations. M2 works well in warmer temps and on
    abrasive cleam surfaces.

    Motor: TRX Velineon (with TRX heatsink #1522)
    Battery: Max Amps 2S 8000
    Battery Location: rear
    ESC: TRX Velineon VXL-3s (with cooling fan)

    Gearing: Pinion: 14t/ Spur: 54t, use 13t pinion on tight tracks and
    15t on larger tracks. Larger pinions also add improves control of the
    truck in the air. Something to think about on jumps that buck the rear
    or high speed jumps that need a little extra to keep the front level.
    Center Diff: 100K, Try lighter mixes of 50K and 100K to get softer
    acceleration and better turn in.
    Mugen MBX6
    TLR 22
    Mugen MBX6 ECO

    Thanks to my sponsors: |RcRenew.com | VP-PRO Racing | Kal-Gard | FTH | Assassin Graphics |

  2. #2
    Senior Member batman's Avatar
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    nice wright up , i like the calibers over the bowties
    i use similar setup only difference traxxas front dual rate springs orange, rear proline stock
    and no stock electronics

  3. #3
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    Is this the Steve Slayden set up from the official Traxxas forums because it's identical?

  4. #4
    Senior Member batman's Avatar
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    maybe thats why our setups are similiar

  5. #5
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    Probably! Not to be mean or anything but don't you think NitroXray could give the credit to the original creator of the set up?

  6. #6
    Senior Member NitroXray80809's Avatar
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    Yes it is Steve's set up and i never claimed it as mine. I posted this because i liked his base set ups to get going and with a few tweaks my car was dialed in to exactly what i wanted. He posted these set ups to be forwarded and NO i diudnt ge tthem off the traxxas forum! So with that said enjoy ur ride and try new things, i didnt make this set up and mine isnt exactly like this but i figured i would pass the help to others. If that annoys im sorry.
    Mugen MBX6
    TLR 22
    Mugen MBX6 ECO

    Thanks to my sponsors: |RcRenew.com | VP-PRO Racing | Kal-Gard | FTH | Assassin Graphics |

  7. #7
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    I was just pointing it out not annoyed by it anyways thanks for the explaination.

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